We took advantage of a getaway to Sicily to visit Donnafugata, nestled on the slopes of Mount Etna. At Jalan, we’re drawn to wines that tell a story, wines born from a strong land, bathed in unique light, and infused with a creative spirit you can feel in every sip. Donnafugata is exactly that: an ode to wild, vibrant, authentic Sicily. A wine that takes you places. (And yes, there’s a video at the end 👇)
The name itself is a promise of escape. Donnafugata means “the woman in flight,” a poetic reference to Queen Maria Carolina, wife of Ferdinand IV of Bourbon, who found refuge in Contessa Entellina, now home to the estate’s first vineyards. It’s also a nod to The Leopard, the masterpiece by Italian author Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, where this fleeing figure symbolizes movement, transformation, and a longing for elsewhere.
Perched on the flanks of Mount Etna, the Donnafugata estate is a land of contrasts. It’s one of four key terroirs that make up the winery’s identity: Contessa Entellina in the west, Vittoria in the south, the island of Pantelleria, and of course, Etna. This last site spans about 20 hectares, between 600 and 750 meters in altitude, with deep soils of lava and ash that give the wines a rare mineral energy. The estate has been in the Rallo family for five generations.
Donnafugata today means 5 winemaking cellars, spread over 488 hectares of vines, cultivating 10 native grape varieties like Nero d’Avola, Grillo, Catarratto, and Zibibbo (also known as Muscat of Alexandria), along with a few international grapes like Chardonnay, beautifully adapted to the Mediterranean climate. The soils are worked with respect, harvests are often done by hand, and the winemaking is handled with care.
And then there are the labels. Colorful, dreamlike, poetic. Each one is a small work of art, created by artist Stefano Vitale, and inspired by the personality of the wine inside. They make you want to listen to the wine before even opening the bottle. We love the idea of wine as a character in its own right, with emotions, contrasts, and imagination.
During our visit, we tasted five incredible wines:
- Chiarandà is a Chardonnay from the Contessa Entellina DOC. It opens with notes of lemon, flowers, and fresh herbs, with a soft touch of vanilla and toasted hazelnut. On the palate, it’s rich yet fresh, with a lovely mineral backbone.
- Fragore is an Etna Rosso DOC from the Montelaguardia contrada, a specific vineyard site. Made from Nerello Mascalese, it offers aromas of blackberry and cassis, with hints of spice and tobacco. The mouthfeel is intense, with fine tannins and great length.
- Floramundi comes from the Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, the only DOCG appellation in Sicily. Made from Nero d’Avola and Frappato, it’s a juicy, generous red with notes of strawberry, plum, and floral touches. Easy-drinking and full of charm.
- Mille e Una Notte is one of the estate’s iconic wines, from the Sicilia DOC. A blend of Nero d’Avola, Syrah, and Petit Verdot, it’s a powerful and refined red with aromas of blackberry, licorice, sweet spices, and a delicate toasted note. Rich and velvety, with a long finish.
- Ben Ryé is the legendary Passito di Pantelleria DOC. From the tiny wind-swept island of Pantelleria between Sicily and Tunisia, it’s made from Zibibbo grapes. This sweet wine bursts with aromas of apricot, peach, candied orange peel, exotic fruits like mango and papaya, and a touch of honey. On the palate, it’s sweet yet bright, intensely aromatic and perfectly balanced. We absolutely loved it.
And of course, we didn’t leave empty-handed. A few bottles made their way into our bags, a little taste of Sicilian dolce vita to enjoy back home.